Maria’s Taco Xpress

Posted by Cabeza De Taco | Dec 23, 2006 · Filed under Austin, Reviews, South

Everybody has their own list of creature comforts- small and sometimes guilty pleasures that provide an escape from the stresses of modern times and keep us generally miserable humans from committing hara-kiri. Maria’s has always been a creature comfort for me and many other 78704sters. My Sunday afternoons have seen many a chorizo/egg/cheese taco placed in my hung-over belly. In fact, in the humble opinion of Cabeza De Taco, Maria’s makes the best chorizo in TacoTown, bar none. print it.

Here’s a little history lesson: Taco Xpress has been the de-facto taco joint on South Lamar since Maria spent her 1997 tax return on a little taco trailer. From there, popularity and square footage grew to include a small shack and patio with strange folk art, carnival facades and a rickety stage for the Sunday gospel brunch, which featured a who’s who of taco-loving Austin songwriters. The lines were always long (usually snaking out the front door) and the food was always good.

Fast forward to present day, thanks to the new CVS pharmacy next door (and their deep pockets) Taco Xpress has moved about 100 feet into a completely new building. Thankfully, they transplanted much of the same tripped-out folk-art sculptures and junkyard coziness from the original. its a weird vibe to have all that oddness spewing from a shiny new place, but I’m sure it’ll get broken in nicely over time.

Its an order at the counter-style shack, but bring CASH- they don’t take no stinkin credit or checks…

If you’re there for breakfast- like i said- get the chorizo egg & cheese taco. Its greasy hangover curin’ taco heaven.

But that’s just the beginning. The al pastor plate is very popular here. Its generous portions of succulent braised pork, with pineapple chunky and cilantro (onions are optional).

Once you’ve ordered, pay the young man, fill up your horchata (spiced rice-milk) or yummy agua-fresca, then grab a spot on the patio- which has been upgraded at the new digs- its now covered and the stage is nicer.

On to the Salsa bar- Maria’s house salsa’s are always legit, especially the chimichurri- a dark and chunky compote inspired by Maria’s native land- Argentina. its great on everything and it really sets Taco Xpress apart from the common red/green varieties. booya!

this last trip, I tried the Pollo Guisada- a white-meat twist on the original carne guisada taco. I was happy to sink my teeth into tasty moist, gravy soaked chicken, topped with fresh lettuce, tomato and cheddar. Dat’s a good taco.

The litmus test- old no. 1- the crispy beef taco. Everybody’s got one, and its a good benchmark. this taco was great- filled with chunky picadillo beef, complete with potato chunks and fresh veggies on top. the taco shell did give out about 3 bites in, but I can forgive, I mean how can any shell hold such greatness?

Chappy got the cheese enchiladas, 2 golden browned beacons of freedom. Down-home cheddar cheese heaven!

Everything’s good here. The refried beans are exactly what you’d expect- the queso is perfect consistency, the chips are good, and the mexican rice is above-average. I’ve yet to taste a Maria’s dish that doesn’t stand up. Add that to the fact that its chill spot to hangout, read the paper, do a little laptop surfin’, or catch some bad-ass music…it all adds up to a bona-fide South Austin landmark. One of the places that makes Austin..well..Taco Town! and if taco-town had a hall-of-fame, Maria might be the first inductee.

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